Every year on the night of 23 June, Porto celebrates its patron saint, São João (Saint John), with the biggest street party of the year. Hundreds of thousands of people fill the streets until sunrise, and the whole city seems to join in.
What happens
Streets and squares are decorated with colourful garlands, neighbourhoods set up stages and grills, and the smell of grilled sardines fills the air. Families, friends and visitors walk the city all night, from the centre down to the river and out to Foz.
The hammers and the leeks
The strangest and most fun tradition: people tap each other gently on the head with soft plastic hammers. In older times they used leeks or garlic flowers, which you may still see. It's all good-natured — expect to be bopped by strangers and to return the favour.
Basil and balloons
Small pots of manjerico (sweet basil) with a paper flag and a short love poem are given as gifts. Many people also release paper lanterns, though safety rules in recent years have discouraged them.
Fireworks
At midnight, a big fireworks display lights up the Douro between the bridges. The riverside in Ribeira and Gaia is the classic place to watch, but it gets very crowded — arrive early or choose a viewpoint higher up.
After the fireworks
Tradition says you walk to the seafront at Foz to watch the sunrise. Bars and street parties continue through the night.
Tips
Book accommodation well in advance. Public transport runs extended hours, but expect crowds. Wear comfortable shoes, carry little, and keep an eye on your belongings. The next day, 24 June, is a public holiday in Porto, so many shops close.
Festivals all year
São João is the highlight, but Porto has festivals, popular saints' parties and street celebrations through the year. Check Agenda Norte under Meetups and Music for what's coming up.